• Skilsaw Model 77 Serial Numbers

I just inherited an old Skilsaw. It has a 4 1/2' Blade w/1/2' arbor. It has a model number of 504 on it. The serial number is P 523724. Does anyone one Know how old this little saw is? Hi, My girlfriend inherited an old wormdrive skil saw. I plugged it in and ran it for a couple of seconds and it sounds great. (I'll oil and lube it before it gets used) Anyway I'm wondering if anyone. The model number, and the serial number. Post all that data and a picture. Cabinetman is offline Quote Quick Reply. Reply: vBulletin Message.

•, 8 years ago Dave, the model 67 was manufactured over a 10 year span, 1946 until 1956. • stairgauge, 8 years ago In 1978 I purchased a skillsaw brand 16 inch radial arm saw mounted on a 2 wheel trailer.

Also I was trying to figure out if I were to replace the bearing that holds the saw blade shaft, I am not sure exactly how to remove it. Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated. Forum Topics Your woodworking skills are displayed for several lifetimes in each project. Have you had to compromise your project. 12156 On the lathe, by the lathe: do you have questions? This forum is for all the woodturners out there. 2193 Relief, 3D, chip-carving, whittling; carving knives, chisels, pocket-knives, power tools.

When was Model J manufactered and how does it's history fit into the Model E and 77? Any info would be appreciated.

Has this handle on your saw been modified? To find it's age, you will need to find as many numbers on it as you can, such as serial numbers, and contact skil with the link I'm providing you below. I did this, and they nailed my saw down to the first and last years and month cf production.

The E: 13 is a drain pump issue (drain pump time exceeded). It may be a faulty drain pump, bad wiring, or a clogged drain hose. I have included a set of illustrated instructions (See below). These should step you through the process of examining the drain pump and its components. This is a very labor intensive do it yourself project, if you are not completely confident in your repair skills, I recommend calling a service company to diagnose and repair your appliance.

I find the saw easier to control than any other I've used. Tonight I am working on the switch. When I went to get supplies to work on it, an electric motor tech said that the switches are usually dirty and the contacts worn.

Anyone know anything about this saw? Thanks •, 7 years ago Now that is COOL!!!!! • chuck schmidt, 7 years ago i am rebuilding a skil 7 1/4 in saw mod. 574 type 2 i think it is 1960 vintage mechanically the saw is in good shape but i have an open winding on the armature. Does anyone have a source for for a new or used part • kurt walker, 7 years ago Prof mike.thanks for the info.i do have other pics of this saw.do u kno how many of these saw were produced.a rarity.? •, 5 years ago I have the same exact saw, it is a model W.

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If you need more assistance please resubmit question with more details. I will be looking forward to helping you again in the near future. Note: Our imaging system is malfunctioning. I would like to apologize in advance if the attachments do not appear online. That ambient temperature reading on the dehumidifier is measured by a sensor inside the dehumidifier. That temperature sensor may not be accurate.

Some were rebranders marketing the tools as their own and some were for the government. This certainly looks like something that could be a government specific tool, given the build design. I doubt it would be easy to confirm this as I’m not sure if Skil did that before becoming part of the Bosch conglomerate and records from that long ago might not be readily available. One of the more interesting tools I ran across was a European rotary hammer from Bosch that had a completely transparent body.

It is a 10 Amp. It has enough power in my opinion, to still be quite useful.

Very popular if you are doing post and beam construction. Take my word.have a strong wrist when you pull the trigger. The torque is something else. You can look it up online pretty easy. Pretty common saw and you need to weigh the part cost against the value of the finished product. If you intend keeping it to use no price is too much.

(I'll oil and lube it before it gets used) Anyway I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if it's possible to determine it's age? It's funny how little they have changed over the years. The one that I have been using for the last 25 years is lighter with more plastic but otherwise looks pretty much the same as this old one. I'm guessing the saw was built in the 50's but I'm curious to know for sure. Any help would be appreciated.

It appears to have the original ppower cord although it has been repaired in one spot with old cloth electrical take. I am interested in selling to a collector and would appreciate some idea of the value of what I have. •, 4 years ago •, 4 years ago Upon closer inspection, my model J Skill Saw is a 6 amp, not 8 amp as previously stated. The toggle switch is also spring loaded. I can also see no place where a handle would have been mounted over the blade, as I have seen on other similar saws. There is both a forward and rear adjustment for blade height. •, 4 years ago Hey Kurtwalker I have a 5 1/4 inch saw identical to yours, Not sure if you're still looking for information or not.

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My saw has the name plate and says it is an 8 amp and has a serial number 3816. This saw still runs very strong with an impressive amount of torque and it appears to have a very old blade in it as well, also 5 1/4'. It is missing the lower blade guard.

This is what I believe to be an first generation model 77 Skilsaw. I haven't really had much luck tracking the history of Skils early tools. There is a lot of info on the history of the company itself, but very little on the progression of tool models through the years. Skils own website provides a nice overview of their history. Skils original model saw was called the Michel Electric Hand Saw Which later came to be called the Model E. Production of this tool was started in 1928 in, I believe, Chicago.

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(1 item) Questions: 1. Is this a model 77 type 1? What is the official full model number for ordering parts? What are the possible years of manuf? Can I find a replacement switch?

I’ve searched all over the internet and can’t find another example like it. Based on the serial number I gather it is from the 1960’s.

After using that as a kid and being introduced to the wormdrive skilsaw I fell in love with it. Now this old wormdrive looks awesome a carpenters piece of art. Luv it!!!!!!!!!! • Chris, 7 years ago I have a skil model R. 12' blade, volts 110 DC or AC up to 60 cycles, 20 amps, single phase. Made in chicago, I tried to find parts, skil in denver said they never made a model R.

Skilsaw Model 77 Serial Numbers

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Later when I took the handle apart to look at the switch, it looked like the bottom of the switch was cooked a little and the wires that are attached to the armature were melted at the switch, one of them was severed all the way through. Since I can't take the saw farther apart without alot more effort, I am asking if anyone knows if the armature wires can be replaced or are they molded into the armature? Do I have to buy a whole new armature if the wires are messed up???? Hi Augusto, Excessive sparking inside the rear vent holes is caused by an armature that has gone bad. The armature has shorted out and is now arching.

• Professor Mike, 7 years ago I'm a little late to the game, but yes Kurt, you have a Model 'J,' Erie Can Company and all. There was an overlap with the Model 'J' and Mode 'E,' so later Model 'J's' have a trigger like the Model 'E,' however the saw castings of the two models are quite different. (Think, using on the shelf, older made parts, mixed with new, like Detroit use to do). The first production Skilsaws were produced in 1928, and the toggle switch start is nearly identical to the patent drawings of the inventor, Edmond Michel. I am an occasional Professor & General Contractor, working on a history of the Wormdrive, so I will look into the questions from all the other posters. Also, if any of you have photos or information, please let me know. All the best, •, 7 years ago No info on that man killer but Ive worked carpentry many years and growing up using those crappy skilsaws that have the motor on the left and view of blade on the right and the handle in front so you have to pull when you cut instead of push!!

Hi, I own a skil model 77 type 17 that is approx 20 years old but, lightly used and in great condition. I was cutting some stringers for some stairs out of 2x12's and all of the sudden it quit working. It made a sound like it was under water and then quit working. Its funny right before that I thought to myself 'this is a bad ass tool, its never let me down' FYI don't ever say that to yourself about anything otherwise it quits working. Anyway.I had it plugged it to a long 14ga extension cord, and I think I overheated the switch. Later when I took the handle apart to look at the switch, it looked like the bottom of the switch was cooked a little and the wires that are attached to the armature were melted at the switch, one of them was severed all the way through.

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Bridges the gap between the terminals. If it shorted out there, the switch should still be good. •, 4 years ago I have used the saw a lot.

Do you still have yours? Eric Want to post a comment? Or in order to post a comment.

Then they emailed a copy of the original parts diagram for my 1940's #77. When you call them, ask for customer service. PS: If all you want is the switch, then I would go with the site provided by 'aghcollect', as it looks like a good source. Wayne Want to post a comment? Or in order to post a comment.

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It sounds like, well.an antique worm drive saw! The original cord is in excellent condition with no repairs. The bottom of the foot is barely marred! This saw is rated at 12 amps and is stamped with serial number 730406. It looks as though it has seen very little use. In addition, it comes with the original steel carrying case and some extra blades.

My most recent of restorations, a vintage blue label Skil 77 7-1/4” worm drive saw, era 1942~1948. Everything says that the saw is 1942, however, the guard lever was generally not found until the end of the blue label series / beginning of the first generation black & orange label saws (1950’s). It is likely that the guard is not original to the saw because of this. When I got the saw, it was in pretty rough shape. Before Disassembling I let all of the screws, bolts and other fasteners soak in solvent overnight to get the HEAVY grease off and then took all of the fastener heads to the wire wheel a bit to shine them up. Those fasteners that were badly damaged were replaced with period fasteners. Upon getting the saw, there was a fair amount of excess noise coming from the motor.

That case is almost exactly the same case used in late model E / J Skil saws of the 1930’s but its the correct size case for a 77 and thus is likely the original case. The smaller vent slots on the motor housing are consistent with the earlier Skil 77 saws. I haven’t seen all of the patent numbers listed out on a blue label saw before, however, given the serial number range and all of the earlier characteristics, I would saw late 1930’s early 1940’s approximately 1937 ~ 1940. -- Just a girl with way too many tools.

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So I drained the oil out and regreased it. It continues to run well, although I can't say that I run this saw often enough to comment on its durability. I have been unable to find an owners manual or any other literature on this saw and would appreciate any info any one could shed on this tool.

Separate the terminals you soldered, even it you have to file out a little solder. Then go to the elec. Section of you hardware & buy a small can of 'Liquid Insulation' (or something like that) & coat the terminals. Doesn't matter if the L.I. Bridges the gap between the terminals.

They even produced them with a toggle start,if you have ever seen the patent drawings, same toggle start in the same place on the saw handle. I'd have to quess not a whole lot of these were made. Not many left, and even fewer that are stll around and are in working orded. If you have a pic or what u have, could you send a pic? • Dale, 7 years ago I have a SKILSAW Model 77 Serial # 145523 Type 2 is on the nameplate. Just pulled it out and still runs. I too was trying to find info on it.

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Looking for a replacement switch. Photo 1: Saw with switch removed Photo 2: Switch.

Hi, My girlfriend inherited an old wormdrive skil saw. I plugged it in and ran it for a couple of seconds and it sounds great. (I'll oil and lube it before it gets used) Anyway I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if it's possible to determine it's age?

The case is in nice overall condition, but does have some paint splattered on the lid. The latches are incomplete need to be replaced. I would recommend having the saw serviced before being put into heavy, commercial-type use. Being offered 'as is, w is.' Shipping $24.95 due to weight. Thanks for taking a look! Seasons Greetings.

Like new I had no problem with it thru all these years. Of course it does not meet todays o.s.h.a.

It has served me well for 20 or so years and finally I must replace the trigger switch. The only maintenance ever done to it was to drain and replace the gear oil every two years, more often under heavy use. I have used it with a diamond blade to cut cementious siding and ceramic floor tiles. I have absolutely NO COMPLAINTS about my Skilsaw! Rather, I lavish praise on it for its' toughness, its' power and stability in use under harsh conditions and in the poshness of a workshop. It has never let me down.My only regret is that the magnesium model was not available at the time I made my purchase.

I emailed skil but they gave me a somewhat generic response saying they stoped production of the 825 in 1960 (produced from 1945-1960), but this seems contrary to what other owners saw. What seems unique about this saw is the adjustment mechanisms and the enlarged blade cover. Its heavy and appears to be built like a tank. Based on its design, it almost seems likely that this was a saw made briefly between “body styles.” If anyone can shed light on this saw let me know!! That definitely looks beefy! I stopped fixing power tools professionally about 2004, at that time some manufacturers (Bosch I remember specifically) produced some power tools for specific agencies.

Inside looked clean and new. Very impressive.

Section of you hardware & buy a small can of 'Liquid Insulation' (or something like that) & coat the terminals. Doesn't matter if the L.I. Bridges the gap between the terminals. If it shorted out there, the switch should still be good.